Saturday, 28 November 2009

Jean-Charles de Castelbajac Shop Report.



After leaving the Jill Sander store, i hopped just around the corner to 50-51 Conduit Street, staying in the area where most big designers have a shop of two, with Vivienne Westwood and Burberry just along the way, i entered what seemed to be another world to the one i had just been in.

This was thanks to the intrepid imagination and love for all things fun offered by Jean-Charles de Castelbajac.

As you are walking up to the store you are instantly hit by his bold and colourful shop exterior, with Jean-Charles de Castelbajac scrawled across the top of the shop in a very sporadic fashion, in multi coloured font, some upper, some lower case, with letters in different colours and fonts from one another, which seems to typify the child like quality in Castelbajac's work. Where he feels the need to make clothes out of 'The Muppets' dolls by sewing them together, and presenting a show, as an animation, made completely from Lego.

I love the location of the store, it's one of the largest on the street, and it is situated on a corner, so as your walking along you don't expect it to keep on going. It's quite the treat!

With the windows decorated with a Red and Black leopard print all over, take the fun from the inside of the store and the theme of this season and translate it to the look of the outside of the store.
With mannequins surrounding the glass front like a Castelbajac army, they have powerful stances, and are completely over styled from head to toe.

As i enter the store i am kindly welcomed by two young men working there, and instantly the atmosphere feel more relaxed.
These are the kind of guys i expect to be wearing Jean-Charles de Castelbajac, young men and women, girls and boys even.
Those who are cool and have the kind of attitude needed to pull of the clothes.

Walking along the rails the price tags are reading slightly lover than expected, with T-Shirts setting you back between £150.00-£200.00, Jumpers between £200.00-£400.00 and Dresses going up to £500.00.
The Castelbajac philosophy seems to be about giving a luxury product, at a lower cost.
He seems to be kicking out the idea that celebrities should be the only ones seen in his clothes and wants his pieces to be affordable to the young who idolize them.

The average Jean-Charles de Castelbajac customer therefore seems to be a slightly younger one, with a cool and laid back attitude, who perhaps doesn't know who they are yet, but is experimenting with fashion and is having a hell of a lot of fun doing so.

This is most certainly reflected in the store as it seems like more of a place to hang out, than make sensible shopping choices.

The layout of the store is slightly chaotic and has no continuity to it, there's metal rails dotted all over the place, with all the clothes being hung from bright Orange coat hangers, clashing with most of the garments. The till point is reminiscent of a Rubik's Cube which lights up and changes colour.
The walls are a wash of primary colours and are adorned with posters celebrating both Pop and Youth Culture with numerous cartoon characters making appearances. It's as though the story of Jean-Charles de Castelbajac's life is on display with many photo's of himself with friends in the industry also decorating the shop.
The clothes are positioned sideways on rails with clashing colours and prints seeping through, which i feel is a clever use of visual merchandising, as you then just want to dive in and see what you'll find in between all of the chaos.

The Music is blasting out M.I.A adding more cool points to the proceedings.

There is Home wear, Books, crazy army and leopard print carpets and pieces of artwork on sale. This store is not just about picking out something to wear, your almost buying into a lifestyle and definately buying into the brand.
It feels as though you could walk out a completely different person to the one you were when you walked in.
It reminds me of the BIBA generation, where you could walk into a store and the experience of just being there was equally as exciting as the clothes.
I've certainly not walked into a shop and felt that for a long time, and Jean-Charles de Castelbajac is therefore offering something unique and special to all who want to come and play!
















Jil Sander Shop Report.

Upon entering the Jil Sander store, situated at number 72 New Bond Street, Westminster, which is the heart of London,s most finest designer stores, it is clear that the Brands identity has most certainly been taken into consideration when it comes to the look of their stores.

With dresses ranging from £400.00-£1250.00, coats from, £900.00- £2250.00 and walking out with a piece of knitwear on average would cost you £500.00, it is evident that this is not a place to come if you don't want to spend some serious money.

Although, you are given the impression whilst walking around that the clothes in this store would be an investment, and that the typical Jil sander buyer is unlikely to be frivolous with their cash, and have the practicality they impose with a modern edge in their minds.

Raf Simons is certainly keeping true to the previous works of Jil sander herself !

The clothes in the store consist of exceptional tailoring and clean lines, with a muted but sophisticated scene of of Grey, Navy, Black, Tan and Creme's, with Cashmere in full use.
Some of the garments have flashes of Orange, yellow and Fuschia in the linings which seems to add a tad more excitement and fun to the space but still exudes that serene feeling.
The clothes are beautiful and unique, but wearable.

The overall design of the store consists of subtle lighting, in neat rows aligning the ceiling, and long black shelves covering the white walls, with shoes and bags neatly positioned on top.
the store is minimal to the extreme, only putting out one of everything, and spacing the accessories fairly far apart from one another, as though you were in an art gallery and each piece was there to be observed in its own space, without being compromised by the others around it.
This is a clever use of visual merchandising to typify the brand.

As for the garments, they are hung on clean plain wooden hangers, on individual silver rails, positioned perfectly around the store, with one Look Book places upon a glass table.
As soon as you walk in the store you know where you are.

Whilst i was in Jil Sander there were o other customers, and only one sales assistant, in a black suit who greeted me as i entered. The lack of people in the store didn't surprise me though, as the Jil Sander customer seems to be an acquired one, who understands the importance of luxury, but wouldn't pop in during peak trading times, and flaunt their license to spend.
It's a person with experience who knows what they like, with no confusion about who they are. Effortlessly chic, and occasionally want that exciting statement piece, but always return to the tailored staples.

The outside of the store, (which was the only place i was allowed to take photos from) was as minimal as the interior with two mannequins placed in the right window, in two fairly demure outfits, and in the left was a large photograph of one of the key pieces from the new collection, and a plinth, with a pair of shoes places neatly on top.
The door was outlined in black, with Jil Sander placed above, in white, the same as the background, so it just appeared slightly embossed.

Although Jil Sander takes things to the extreme of minimal, i feel as though they do it in such a way which creates drama, but just the right amount for you to take notice.
This is what seems to make them exceptional in the market place, as i know no other who does it with the same level of braveness, intelligence, whit and beauty as they do.

I shall be returning to the store when next seasons stock comes in!














For my Shop Reports i have chosen to review the Jil Sander and Jean-Charles de Castelbajac stores.

Although both considered to be high end in the fashion industry, they couldn't be more different from one another.....


Original Cindy in its box, from 1963.


Vogue Covers



Foale and Tuffin prints for LIBERTY,





Their clothes being shot for the cover of the Sunday Times,



Showroom Chosen by Vogue and Harpers Bazzar,



More Foale and Tuffin.


1965, Black and White Check Shirt Suit, Wool


1964 T-track dress, Rayon

KeyHole Dress, Navy, Cotton Lace



Handbags and Bangles, 1964
Fur Hats, 1964










Foale and Tuffin, MADE IN ENGLAND, exhibition at the Fashion and Textiles Museum.

Tuffins coursework from the Royal college of art. 59-61









The exhibition i intended to go to at the Fashion and Textiles Museum was one celebrating the work of 60's fashion innovators Marion Foale and Sally Tuffin. Two women who were dettermined not to be stuck working in dress factories or replicating couture dresses, the pair embraced british culture in an era of creativity and evergy to produce clothes wich have a huge influence on what we wear today and captured a very special time in Britich history!


Prints.



More of Jacqueline's prints

Jacqueline Groag, Textile and Pattern Design.












I Took a trip off to the Fashion and Textiles museum, and found out whilst there, that they had a small showing of the work of textile designer Jacqueline Groag so i had a look.




LACOSTE pop up store.











Walking through Covent Garden i noticed that LACOSTE had set up an inflatable pop up store to celebrate the history of their brand, so i took a look inside!
To my delight there was not only a shop inside but also a white room which projected images from Lacoste's archives all around it!




Here are a few more i particularly enjoyed looking at.

Beautiful Dresses.
Totally British.


This one i took mainly for the bennefit of one of my housemates, who's Russian!!

Icon's

Gerry Hall and Mick Jagger.
The Rolling Stones.


The Beatles.